tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28817157965094522732024-03-12T20:54:49.863-07:00Raven's Herb and Garden JourneyRavenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-91948752249640415612012-05-16T15:18:00.000-07:002012-05-16T15:18:07.624-07:00How to Grow Radishes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sW7J8Ct2sdg/T7Qnd66wBzI/AAAAAAAAAIY/N376PVO9P1A/s1600/radishes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sW7J8Ct2sdg/T7Qnd66wBzI/AAAAAAAAAIY/N376PVO9P1A/s320/radishes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name: Radishes</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span><br />
**Radishes are cheap to buy as seed packets and have a very quick germination period.<br />
<br />
**Their beautiful red color always looks appealing in salads and their crunch is always welcome in my salads as well.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span><br />
**Spring crops prefer full sun, summer crops prefer partial shade.<br />
<br />
**Prefers fertile, well-drained soil.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span><br />
**Sow summer radishes from March to June every few weeks, and from September to October. Sow winter radishes in July/August.<br />
<br />
**Thinly sow ½ inch deep, place one seed every ½ inch apart. For larger varieties, thin to 1 every 4 inches. Have 10 inches between the rows.<br />
<br />
**Seeds can be stored for up to 5 years.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span><br />
**Water regularly, especially in times of drought.<br />
<br />
**The plants will become woody if it is too dry, but will split if it has irregular watering.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span><br />
**For summer radishes, pull the whole plant up when the shoulders look ready. Do not leave them in too long or else they will get woody or run to seed.<br />
<br />
**For winter radishes, pick when needed. They can stand cold weather, but not a hard frost.Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-75335786337641572742012-05-09T12:27:00.007-07:002012-05-09T12:58:37.478-07:00How to Grow Potatoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uG1dt3gPyjU/T6rFEL5-1eI/AAAAAAAAAII/nZvJQlc-EOI/s1600/potatoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uG1dt3gPyjU/T6rFEL5-1eI/AAAAAAAAAII/nZvJQlc-EOI/s320/potatoes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Potatoes</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Potatoes are a fun crop to grow because they are a lot like buried treasure.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**In northern climates, potatoes are a summer crop, but in warmer climates, they are planted in late winter for a spring harvest, or in late summer for a late fall harvest, so that they will not mature during hot weather. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The crop takes 2-4 months to mature, depending on the variety and if you like new potatoes or mature ones.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Choose a sunny spot where potatoes, tomatoes, and other related crops have not grown recently. You also want a spot that has not been limed heavily or recently. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Since they are a root crop, good soil is very important. The soil should not be extremely rich but should be well drained and well aerated. Heavy clay soils are not good for potatoes. The best thing to do to prepare the soil is to add plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Always buy “certified disease-free seed potatoes” from a reputable source.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can plant potatoes several weeks before the last average frost date in the spring but only if the soil has dried out sufficiently.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If your seed is in the form of cut pieces, you need to cure them by letting them sit for a few days in a fairly cool, dry place so that their cut surfaces will harden.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant the potatoes in a shallow trench that is filled partially with soil. Then as the plants grow, gradually mound up soil around them to give them more and more underground space in which the tubers can grow and keep away from the light (light turns the potatoes green and the green areas are poisonous).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant the potatoes 1 foot apart. Add some compost to the bottom of the trench. Plant the potatoes with the root end down. Cover with 3-4 inches of soil. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you find it tiresome to constantly try to find soil around the plant to mound up, you can stop adding soil and start adding mulch, which also helps keep the soil cool and moist.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**After the potatoes are bedded down, there is little to do except watch for pests/rodents.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Watering is only necessary in extremely dry weather.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Be on the lookout for the Colorado potato beetle, which can quickly wipe out an entire crop. Almost every potato patch has potato beetles sooner or later, but they are not difficult to hand pick off the plants (and then destroyed). Be sure to rub off the reddish egg masses that you might find under the leaves.</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oFjDaLGu5qA/T6rFDzxDidI/AAAAAAAAAIA/9zAegLGvOpA/s1600/potato_beetle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oFjDaLGu5qA/T6rFDzxDidI/AAAAAAAAAIA/9zAegLGvOpA/s1600/potato_beetle.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorado Potato Beetle</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Aphids can be a problem, but can be simply hosed off the plants or handpicked.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The worst disease for potatoes is late blight. If your potato foliage becomes blackened and then moldy, it has the blight. Remove it and burn it and then wait a few weeks to dig any potatoes that are under the soil. The best way to fight the blight is with clean seeds and crop rotation.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Potatoes can be dug up and eaten as soon as they are formed and anytime after that.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you want good storage potatoes, however, you should leave them in the ground for at least a few weeks after the foliage withers and browns in order to thicken their skins. They should be dug up if there is a threat of a hard frost, but otherwise leave them in the ground as long as possible.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Dig carefully with a digging fork or a potato hoe (if your soil is light and fluffy, you can even do this with your hands). Make sure you get all the potatoes down deep and out to the sides. Dig on a dry day when the soil is dry as well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Ideal storage conditions are dark and cold, but above freezing, lightly humid but not damp, and well ventilated. Do not wash the potatoes before storing and do not pile them more than a foot or so deep.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-58716655377899512302012-05-02T08:51:00.000-07:002012-05-02T08:51:05.712-07:00How to Grow Peppers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YTxQTpfRV8Q/T6FXzH5P-XI/AAAAAAAAAH0/62sPA2k6Unk/s1600/peppers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YTxQTpfRV8Q/T6FXzH5P-XI/AAAAAAAAAH0/62sPA2k6Unk/s320/peppers.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Peppers</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**There are so many delicious types of peppers! I am a spicy lover, so I am eager to grow them all.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Green bell peppers are simply the bell peppers that are picked early. If you leave them on the plant longer, they turn red, turn sweet, and become even more nutritious.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Give peppers a very sunny spot that they can occupy all season long and where peppers have not grown recently.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Growing them in raised beds, which has warmer soil, will hasten the ripening.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Peppers like a sandy, fertile loam soil. However, do not give this plant too much nitrogen because then the plant produces more leaves and less fruit. Some extra phosphorus is beneficial, and the plant will suffer if the soil is too low in calcium or magnesium. It prefers a soil with the pH of 6.5.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The most important thing is to have warm temperatures and a steady supply of water.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Seeds should be started indoors at least 8 weeks before the last average frost date. The seedlings do not like to be transplanted, so soil blocks or peat pots are idea (the containers that you plant right into the soil).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Try to keep the soil at about 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit while you are germinating the seeds, then keep the plants at 75 degrees. Do not plant them outside until your garden is averaging 65 degrees during the day and 55 degrees at night. Even if the danger of frost is passed, wait until the soil has warmed up. Do NOT harden off the plants. Remove any flowers that appear until about a month after setting out, so that the plant will work on developing a good root system before giving you the fruits.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant the plants about 15-18 inches apart (depending on the variety).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**If the leaf color is too pale or the growth seems slow, give the plants a dash of liquid fish emulsion.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Keep the soil evenly moist. After the ground has warmed up, you can lay down mulch to help with the moisture control.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Prevent diseases by rotating crops and watering at ground level to keep the flowers/leaves dry.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Harvesting can be done at anytime. Once peppers mature, you should pick them or production will slow down. Cut carefully with a knife or clippers instead of yanking the pepper off of the plant because that damages the stems.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Production starts to slow down in cold weather, even if there has not been a frost yet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can dry peppers either in a dehydrator or simply by spreading them out in a warm spot on screens or cookie sheets. Cayenne and Paprika are excellent peppers for drying and grinding for your spice rack. To grind, simply dry the peppers and then spin them in a blender or a coffee grinder and store the powder in tight containers in a dark place.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-57476807581055375832012-04-28T11:12:00.000-07:002012-04-28T11:12:15.052-07:00How to Grow Peas<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N0T3iH41bZU/T5wyunQNEkI/AAAAAAAAAHg/pmbIwShhUfU/s1600/pea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N0T3iH41bZU/T5wyunQNEkI/AAAAAAAAAHg/pmbIwShhUfU/s320/pea.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name: Peas</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**A pea crop is a lot of vines but not a high production of peas. However, they are also very easy to grow, they are good for your garden soil, they don’t take up much space, and they are an early and quick crop that means the little space they take will be available in time for your fall crops.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The most important fact about peas is that they cannot stand hot weather. If temperatures are consistently over 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will die. However, the seeds tolerate frost very well, so they are the ideal early-spring crop. They are not good in the fall season, though, because even though the seeds tolerate frost, the mature pods do not, so do not grow in the fall unless your climate gives you a two month break between summer heat and frost.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you live in a warm climate, fall and even winter planting are doable.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Peas will grow both in full sun and in a partly shaded location. Choose the best location based on the variety of pea. Some will need support due to being taller vine types, while others grow in a more bush-type shape.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Pea crops should be rotated every year to avoid disease and to benefit other crops from the nutrients they leave behind.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The ideal soil for peas is a light and sandy loam that warms up quickly. However, if you are trying to have a later crop, you might find a clay soil beneficial because it will help keep the roots cooler. Either way, your soil should have plenty of well-rotted manure or compost put into it because peas always need a good supply of moisture to germinate and grow well. The soil’s pH level should be around 6.5 and you should add lime if the soil is more acidic than that.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**There are many different ways to plant peas, and you might find it beneficial to experiment.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBV5zDDyDxg/T5wyvBgTseI/AAAAAAAAAHo/ErTfKmlQGH4/s1600/peapod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBV5zDDyDxg/T5wyvBgTseI/AAAAAAAAAHo/ErTfKmlQGH4/s320/peapod.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Keep in mind that a pea plant’s vines are very delicate, so choose the location for your seeds carefully, perhaps along the garden fence, so that you do not crush them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Prepare the garden soil for your peas the fall season before planting by adding organic matter to the soil. Then, poke the seeds into the soil as soon as the ground has thawed and dried sufficiently in the spring.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you want super-early peas, you can start them in soil blocks a couple weeks before planting time. You can also start them in a cold frame. A raised bed will also speed up planting by a week or so because of the good drainage and warmer soil.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant the seeds 1 inch deep and 2-4 inches apart (depending on your variety). Keep the soil well moistened until the peas are sprouting.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Planting a succession of pea crops, or planting varieties that mature at different times, will give you many weeks of early summer peas.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**For fall crops, sow about two months before the first expected frost.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Once the peas are planted, there is not much you need to do with them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you feel like your soil is not sufficient or you are trying to hurry up the crop before hot weather, you can feed them with a liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion when the plants are about 6 inches tall.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You should also consider mulching your plants when they are 6 inches tall to help keep moisture levels stable and to prevent weeds.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you are growing the taller vine types with some type of support system, you might need to help guide the vines toward the support if they are leaning the wrong way.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If your pea crops were healthy, you can turn under the pea crops after harvest back in the soil to enrich the soil even more, but only do this if your crops were completely healthy.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Pick peas promptly. If you wait even a day too long, they lose their sweetness and flavor because the sucrose in them turns into starch. If you wait too many days, you also slow down the production of a plant that is already notorious for low production rates.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Pea vines produce from the bottom up, so look for mature peas at the bottom first.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Traditional green peas are picked when you can feel full-size round peas inside the pods but the peas do not feel hard. You can also open up a pod, look at the peas and taste them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The edible-pod peas are picked before the peas form, when the pods are full size but still flat. The exception is the sugar pod type, which are picked when the pods are full of round peas even though you also eat the pod.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you have waited too long and your peas are tough and tasteless, simply throw them in your compost pile so that they are still at least giving you the benefit of their nutrients for future crops (you ARE keeping your own compost pile, right??) <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**As soon as you pick garden peas, the sugar in them will start to turn to starch, so pick them just before dinner/eating. If you are not eating them right away, at least refrigerate them immediately or freeze them. They will stay sweet when frozen.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-72469687769477491152012-04-21T14:46:00.000-07:002012-04-21T14:46:30.214-07:00How to Grow Parsnips<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4jiqzl5Y20/T5MpucvFIeI/AAAAAAAAAHU/Tvc3tVNcBoE/s1600/parsnips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4jiqzl5Y20/T5MpucvFIeI/AAAAAAAAAHU/Tvc3tVNcBoE/s320/parsnips.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Parsnips</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Closely related to the carrot except even healthier for you because it contains more fiber and potassium.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Parsnips are easy to grow and very tasty if roasted.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You should use fresh seeds every year.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Sun or partial shade will work for your plant.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It will grow on sandy, loamy soils best. Stony soils are not suitable because the roots will fork when they meet the stones.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Spread a thin layer of well-rotted manure or compost over the ground for the plants in early spring.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Sow outside in March.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Germination rate is unreliable and often slow. Consider sowing a marker row of carrots or lettuce along the same row to remind you where they are while you wait.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Sow ½ inch deep. Thin to 6 inches between plants when plantlings. Parsnips hate to be transplanted, so discard the thinning and do not try growing in trays/modules.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Have 1 foot space between each row of parsnips.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Weed carefully between the rows.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Only give them water if there is a severe drought.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**One potential problem is called ‘Parsnip Canker’, which means it goes black and rotten around the crown. Discard the affected plants and next year, lime the soil in the winter and sow a more resistant variety.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**In late fall or winter after the first frost, when the foliage begins to die down, you can start harvesting.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Lift the parsnips as required. Leave the rest in the ground until needed, or until the end of February before they start to regrow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can freeze them for later use.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Companion Planting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant lettuces or spinach between parsnip rows to use the space since parsnips grow so slowly.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-11822444004932289332012-04-19T10:30:00.000-07:002012-04-19T10:30:27.573-07:00How to Grow Lettuce<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ORpWjU0OWXA/T5BK3lfbDAI/AAAAAAAAAHM/nXlKjcPwOaw/s1600/Lettuce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ORpWjU0OWXA/T5BK3lfbDAI/AAAAAAAAAHM/nXlKjcPwOaw/s320/Lettuce.jpg" width="320" /></a><b style="font-size: x-large;">Name: Lettuce </b>(includes Boston Lettuce, Iceberg Lettuce, and
Romaine Lettuce)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*There are many lettuce varieties and they all grow
differently. It is important to read the details on the packets of the specific
type of lettuce you choose as well as know the general knowledge of the lettuce
family.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*In order to grow lettuce in the summer, you need to either
shade the plants or find heat-tolerant varieties. In hot climates, you may not
be able to grow them in the summer, but only in the other 3 seasons. Heat makes
the plant bolt, which makes their leaves taste bitter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*Finding a spot for lettuce to grow is easy because you can
harvest it soon after you plant. Thus, you can grow it in the spaces between
slower-maturing crops such as cauliflower, peppers, and cabbage because you
harvest the lettuce before the other crops get too big. In addition, it does
not need full sun and actually appreciates shade, so that you can grow it
by/between tomatoes, pole beans, corn, or cucumber plants and it won’t
complain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*The soil for lettuce should be rich, especially in
nitrogen. You should till in well-rotted manure or compost to provide an airy,
moisture-rich and nutrient-rich soil. Later on, give your plant either blood
meal or fish emulsion to sustain the quick growth of lettuce plants. The ideal
soil is a bit on the sandy side, but heavy soil is okay as well. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*Lettuce likes a soil that has been pulverized, in a similar
manner as carrots, so you might follow an early lettuce crop with a carrot
patch. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*The ideal pH is between 6.0-7.0.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*You can start lettuce indoors if you want a jumpstart on
your harvest, especially if your lettuce variety cannot handle warm
temperatures. To start indoors, sow as early as 10 weeks before the last frost
date, and keep the flats cool (below 70 degrees) and moist. You should also
harden them off for a few days outdoors. Then, set the young plants out in the
garden as soon as the soil has thawed and dried out a bit. Space them about a
foot apart.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*You can also sow the seeds directly into the garden. Try to
space the seeds about ½ inch apart if possible. Thin the plants at 2 inches and
then at approx. 6 inches. You can eat the plants you are thinning out. Make it
so that after the second thinning, the remaining plants are about 1 foot apart.
After sowing, cover the seeds with only a fine sprinkling of soil. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*A good idea is to plant new, small crops every 2 weeks in
order to have a constant supply of lettuce.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*While the lettuce is growing, try to maintain a constant
moisture. Again, a mulch will help with moisture as well as for keep down the
weeds, keeping the lettuce clean, and warding off rotting diseases.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*If the plants seem limp (even after mulching), give the
ground around the plants a good soaking. Lettuce that is well-watered also
tastes less bitter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*Lettuces are harvested in different ways, depending on the
type. You can pick leaf lettuce from the outside, letting the inner leaves
continue to grow, or you can crop the whole thing an inch about the soil and
let it resprout. Heading types are usually cut whole, head by head as needed,
but you can also pick these beginning with the outer leaves.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-55706448184379236832012-04-01T09:47:00.000-07:002012-04-01T09:47:32.265-07:00How to Grow Leeks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bgzMtxllTIg/T3iGFb1Pb9I/AAAAAAAAAHE/bvtqzZrr5lM/s1600/leeks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bgzMtxllTIg/T3iGFb1Pb9I/AAAAAAAAAHE/bvtqzZrr5lM/s320/leeks.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Leeks</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Related to onions and look like overgrown scallions.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*A wonderful, flavorful, mild-tasting vegetable.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*A vegetable that is cold tolerant, easy to grow, and yet for some odd reason, expensive to buy. They are eaten cooked.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Like other onions, they like plenty of water and a rich soil.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can grow two separate crops –summer leeks and winter leeks.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Use a sunny spot, and be careful not to grow on a garden patch that recently had brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) because the onions will grow poorly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Lime the soil is the pH is below 6.0 and give it plenty of organic matter. The soil needs to be pulverized but not to a great depth because the plants are shallow rooted.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can start both summer and winter leeks in the greenhouse in early March. Later on in the spring, transplant them into rows in the garden, spaced at 6 inches apart. For both crops to work, you plant two different types of varieties, an early-maturing one for the summer and a later variety for the winter. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Make a deep hole and drop each seedling in. Leeks are usually blanched and this is how the process begins. Do not compress the soil around the seedlings. From time to time, add additional soil around the plant to make a mound. This produces the long, white bulb that is wonderful for cooking.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can start harvesting whenever you need a few leeks, and finish off the summer variety by the beginning of fall. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*The winter ones can be dug up as long as the ground remains unfrozen. If you put a plastic A-frame tunnel over the row, you can dig up leeks all through the winter. Leeks that winter over in frozen soil can often be dug up and eaten in the spring before they go to seed.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Leeks are harder to dig up than onions. Pry them loose with a digging fork and then gently pull them by grasping them at the base. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*They can be stored for several weeks in the root cellar or refrigerator.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-37778188471010315442012-03-10T08:27:00.000-08:002012-03-10T08:27:03.275-08:00How to Grow Cucumbers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-fRN1IF5Ek/T1uAujp1IgI/AAAAAAAAAG4/0MFSTvbdJIg/s1600/cucumbers.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-fRN1IF5Ek/T1uAujp1IgI/AAAAAAAAAG4/0MFSTvbdJIg/s320/cucumbers.gif" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name: Cucumbers</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Cucumbers have come a long way in the past 20-30 years. They used to be disease-ridden, prone to give indigestion, etc. Now, however, there are TONS of varieties to experiment with and the problems have been taken care of.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*They like warm weather but not intense, dry heat. They are not frost hardy, but since they grow and mature quickly, it is easy to get a crop even with a short season as long as you plant them in the full sun.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*You need to think carefully about where your cucumbers will grow. These plants have long vines that take up a lot of room. One plant, however, produces plenty of cucumbers, so you shouldn’t need more than a 6x9 foot plot for each six plants you grow (6 plants should be plenty for most families…unless you are cucumber crazy).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*It is often a good idea to grow these plants vertically to save space and also to give you healthier, cleaner veggies. You can grow them up a fence, use stakes, use trellises, etc. Simply remember that it is a big, heavy vine so the support needs to be strong.<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*You will get the highest yield of cucumbers in a clay soil with plenty of humus. However, a sandy loam will warm up quicker and give you a faster, earlier crop. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Prepare soil by adding plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, because cucumbers like a fertile soil. The pH levels should be between 6.0-6.5.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can start cucumbers indoors two weeks before planting if you want to extend the season, but do not bother with this unless you can keep your seeds at 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit by day and no colder than 60 degrees at night. Otherwise, just wait until the soil has warmed up and plant outdoors.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*If you sow directly in the garden, plant them either in hills/clusters or rows, about ½ inch deep. Rows work better if you are using vertical support. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, thin to a foot apart in the row, with rows about 3 feet apart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*If the ground and air remain cold, protect your cucumbers with some type of heat-conserving device/cover. Be sure to remove these covers when the female blossoms appear so that they can be pollinated.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Mulch is a great idea with cucumbers. Those that lie on the ground are better protected from rot and disease if they lie on the mulch; the mulch will keep the soil evenly moist; and mulch keeps down the weeds. Weeding your cucumbers can damage a cucumber to the point where the whole plant dies, so it is very important to keep weeds down with mulch. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*When the cucumber plants are about a foot high, give them a liquid seaweed fertilizer boost.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Give your plants a good soak if the weather is particularly dry.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*The worst pest for cucumbers is the cucumber beetle. They not only damage the plant by chewing them, but also go from plant to plant and spread diseases. Pick off any beetles you find and check the flowers and leaves of the plants for more. It is easiest to do this in the morning, because the beetles move slower then.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Cucumbers are one of the vegetables that HAVE to be picked whether you need them or not. Do not stop picking them. If they yellow on the vine, the plant will stop producing any more cucumbers. Do not let the cucumbers exceed the size that is dictated by your specific seed packet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Twist the mature cucumbers off gently or snip them off with clippers, but use two hands and be careful not to break the fragile vines.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Companion Planting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Borage, French and pot marigolds, if planted nearby, will encourage pollinating insects.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Basil is said to reduce powdery mildew.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Dill is said to be good for the plant’s health in general.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-58712030474175316322012-03-05T13:29:00.000-08:002012-03-05T13:29:00.333-08:00How to Grow Celery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JI3wU7lUyb8/T1UwC8e2WTI/AAAAAAAAAGw/p8zwypgTPDM/s1600/celery.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JI3wU7lUyb8/T1UwC8e2WTI/AAAAAAAAAGw/p8zwypgTPDM/s320/celery.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name: Celery</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can grow celery in any climate if you time it right. Some varieties take a long time to grow (up to 4 months), so read your specific seed package closely for that information.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*All celery plants dislike hot summers. Sow it in the fall in hot areas or in early spring in cold climates. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Celery prefers a mucky soil or a high water table. It’s natural environment is marshes. However, you can still grow it in average soil with treatments.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*It is a heavy feeder that needs a very rich soil. It would help if you till lots and lots of well-rotted manure, compost, and/or peat moss into the soil before planting. The best pH is 6.0-7.5. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*You should also make sure that the soil has enough calcium in it to avoid the disease ‘black heart’. Adding lime to boost the pH will also take care of the plant’s calcium needs.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*It will tolerate partial shade, so you have many options for where to grow this plant. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*You do not need a lot of space for a celery crop. An 8-foot row will give you about ten bunches of celery.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*It is easier to buy seedlings than grow celery from seed. The seeds are tiny and take two weeks to germinate while needing plenty of light, warmth, and moisture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*If you do try from seed, for a spring crop, start the seeds indoors about 10 weeks before the last frost date. Sow the seeds in a light potting medium and just press the seeds lightly into the surface. Keep them perfectly moist and around 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Transplant outdoors around the time of the last average frost, but only if the weather and soil have started to warm up. Do not set outside in the cold to harden off before this. The plants should be about 5-6 inches tall when transplanted and spaced about 10 inches apart. Set the crowns a bit below the soil level and even if the soil is already fertile, give each seedling a cupful of liquid fertilizer at the planting time (such as fish emulsion). Give the new plants a dose of liquid fertilizer every few weeks to keep them growing vigorously. Mulching will help protect them from chilling and help maintain moisture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*If you try from seed for a later crop, start the seeds indoors in May or June and follow the above instructions.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Water them well, especially in a drought.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Keep the bed weeded because celery will not tolerate competition.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Good seeds, good soil, and steady watering will keep away most diseases.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">*Pick outside stalks as you need them, or harvest the whole plant, cutting it off at the base when it looks like a proper, mature bunch of celery.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*You can often prolong your harvest past the first frosts in fall by mulching heavily with straw.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Celery can be stored for several weeks, sometimes even several months, in a cool cellar.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-584539049682794982012-02-27T09:43:00.000-08:002012-02-27T09:43:50.867-08:00How to Grow Cauliflower<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vgyCFwwf-Hs/T0vAN9Ysl8I/AAAAAAAAAGo/IY4IWI2eAWo/s1600/cauliflower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vgyCFwwf-Hs/T0vAN9Ysl8I/AAAAAAAAAGo/IY4IWI2eAWo/s400/cauliflower.jpg" width="400" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Cauliflower</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*The edible part of this plant is actually a cluster of flower buds.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*It does not tolerate either very hot or very cold weather, so there is only a short season before and after the summer heat in which you can grow it. In addition, in order to keep the cauliflower white and thus tasty, you need to keep their heads covered with leaves while it is maturing. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*This plant is an excellent source of calcium and other vitamins and freezes well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*A sunny, well-drained spot where other cabbage-family vegetables have not grown recently.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Have a soil that is fairly rich, especially in nitrogen and potassium and a pH level around 6.5-7.0. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Add plenty of organic matter into the soil to help it retain its’ moisture. It is best to add compost of well-rotted manure into the soil the fall season before planting.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*For spring crops, start the seeds indoors, 4-6 weeks before setting the plants out. Keep the seedlings at about 70 degrees and keep them moist. The roots do not like to be disturbed so use the type of containers that can be planted directly into the soil (peat pots, soil blocks, etc.). When they are about 6 inches tall, they can be planted outside as long as it is no earlier than 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost date. You can set the plants outside in a protected spot to harden off a week or two earlier than that. Plant them 18-24 inches apart. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*For fall crops, you can sow the seeds directly in the garden, but you can also start them indoors and transplant them if you need the garden space. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*The most important thing about raising cauliflower is to keep the growth going. If the weather is dry, give the soil a good soaking. Mulch will help keep the water from evaporating. If the heads are still not growing bigger, give the plants a liquid organic fertilizer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*When the flower/edible white part is egg-size, blanch it by bending over the big leaves that surround it so that the leaves cover the white part. Tuck the leaves in on the opposite side and break the ribs of the leaves to keep them from springing back. If the head does not stay covered, tie some leaves together at the top with a string or rubber band. Do not cover the heads when they are wet or they may rot. The idea is to keep light and moisture out while letting in air and giving it some space in which to grow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*Water the ground around the plant (try to avoid watering the actual plant to prevent rot possibilities) and keep the soil constantly moist.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">*The heads are ready to harvest when they are about 6 inches across but still tight, with the buds unopened (some varieties have larger heads, so check the package for more specific information on your plant).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">*When they are ready, cut them right away at the base and either use them or freeze them. You can also pull up the whole plant (including the roots) and store it in a cool cellar where it will keep for at least a month.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-20276294614536115602012-02-21T10:41:00.000-08:002012-02-21T10:41:03.642-08:00How to Grow Carrots<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NSb_w0irpiw/T0Pk-NEEjrI/AAAAAAAAAGg/HcNJk127ZAA/s1600/carrots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NSb_w0irpiw/T0Pk-NEEjrI/AAAAAAAAAGg/HcNJk127ZAA/s1600/carrots.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name: Carrots</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Carrots do not grow well in very hot weather. Coolness keeps them from turning woody and brings out their best flavor. Thus, in warm areas, you should grow them during fall, winter, and spring seasons. In cooler climates, you can plant them in early spring, then more every few weeks until early August, so that there are carrots in the ground even in the winter.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**A few hard frosts makes the roots sweeter and tastier. Carrots are one of the few vegetables that you can actually leave growing straight through hard freezes of winter to dig up in early spring.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">**The best site is sunny and well drained, though carrots will grow in partial shade.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**They grow happily in raised beds because it is the best way to maintain the fluffy soil that they like best.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Carrots like a loose sandy loam the best of all. If your soil is a little heavy even after adding organic matter, simply grow the shorter carrot types. The soil has to be free of obstacles (stones, roots, clay lumps, etc.) in order to grow the long-rooted carrot types.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Because carrots are a root crop, the soil should be low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Use rock powders such as rock phosphate and greensand. The ideal pH is around 6.5.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Carrot seeds are always sown directly into the garden. The first ones can go in about 3-4 weeks before the last frost date. Single rows work best because they are easier to mulch and thus maintain the moist soil surface needed to thrive.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Try to sow the seeds about 1 inch apart, though this is difficult because the seeds are so small. Cover the seeds with a half-inch of loose soil made with airy organic matter (such as vermiculite) because the seedlings will not come up through a hard dirt.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**When the seeds are in, water the bed thoroughly every day (twice if weather is sunny/dry) and possibly cover with a very thin layer of straw to shade it and keep it moist.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**One trick is to grow them together with a crop such as a fast-growing radish. The radish seedlings will emerge first and shade the slower-growing carrot seedlings. Radishes are also harvested before carrots produce their major root growth, so there is no harm done.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Give carrots consistent and constant moisture, do not let their beds dry out. Dig in compost, peat moss, or well-rotted manure into the soil to help the soil stay moist. If you use manure, dig it in at least six months before planting the seeds.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Mulching will also help keep the soil moist.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Thin the carrots several times, the first time when they are 1-2 inches high, then later on whenever they are starting to look crowded. In the first thinning, eliminate any seedlings that are closer than half an inch to another seedling. Snipping them off with scissors is a good way to do this without damaging the seedlings still growing. For the second thinning, you pull up tiny carrots and you can eat them (try them in a salad).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Though carrots need a lot of work in the beginning, once they are maturing, they take care of themselves. You only need to be concerned if there is a long drought (then water them) or if they need weeding.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Protect the last crop in the winter with a straw mulch and you are repaid with very sweet and delicious carrots, since a few frosts make them even more delicious than usual.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Because carrots are biennials, they normally go to seed in their second summer. In the early spring before this, they will start to flower. Make sure you pull the carrots before they flower because the energy of the plant will only be focused on the flower at this point and not the growth or taste of the carrot.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Diseases can be avoided through crop rotation. You can also avoid problems with the carrot rust fly through crop rotation.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Pull carrots up by grasping the shoulders and giving them a bit of a wiggle or twist as you pull them up. If they don’t come up easily, use a digging fork to help you.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Once the carrots are out, cut off the stems right away, leaving an inch or two of green for looks. While carrot tops are beautiful, they will keep growing, which draws moisture and nourishment out of the edible roots and leaves them tasteless.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Carrots keep a long time in storage, either in a root cellar or the fridge. You can freeze the small and tender ones, but most keep find in the cellar or fridge.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Companion Planting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Plant onions, shallots, chives and garlic nearby to keep carrot flies away. This only works if they are in the garden bed with the carrots. If you pick the onions/garlic/etc. before the carrots, the protection will be gone.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-58762701696315131322012-02-13T13:35:00.000-08:002012-02-13T13:36:32.579-08:00How to Grow Brussels Sprouts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-toxwVWcvNNk/TzmCKJ8OzVI/AAAAAAAAAGI/SBSAC4DLgnw/s1600/fal2007_brussels_sprouts_harvest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-toxwVWcvNNk/TzmCKJ8OzVI/AAAAAAAAAGI/SBSAC4DLgnw/s320/fal2007_brussels_sprouts_harvest.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name:</span></b> Brussels Sprouts</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**This is the ultimate late-weather crop because their flavor is improved from a bit of frost. It is best, then, to plan it so that the plants are mature when the days are still warm but night frosts have just begun. You can pick Brussels sprouts throughout the fall and even in the winter.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The mature plant looks like a little palm tree with big floppy leaves on top and little round sprouts growing up and down the trunk. Each plant should give you about one quart of sprouts, which freeze well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Grow Brussels sprouts in a sunny, well-drained spot. The plant takes a long time to mature, so give it a spot in your garden for an entire season. If your garden plot is small/crowded, you can plant small or early crops between the rows of Brussels sprouts.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If it is possible, plant your sprouts in a location that gets plenty of sun but that is also protected from the wind because the tall mature plants can blow over.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The soil should be an average pH. Sprouts prefer a fertile, sandy loam.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**In a cooler climate, you grow one crop, starting with sowing seeds indoors and setting out the little plants so that they have 90-100 days to grow before hard frosts.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**In a warmer climate, the plants might have a difficult time getting through the hot summer, set out the little plants in midsummer and keep them well watered.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It might take a season or two to figure out the best Brussels sprouts schedule for your particular area.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You may also directly sow the seeds into the soil if you time it correctly. Keep the bed moist and thin the seedlings as time goes on so that the plants are 2 feet apart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**The plants should be spaced about 2 feet apart. Dig a shovelful of compost into each hole and water very thoroughly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**A mulch will help keep the soil evenly moist and an occasional boost of liquid fertilizer (such as fish emulsion) may be helpful.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The plant is tall but shallow rooted, so it tends to fall over in high winds. It helps to make a soil mound around each plant as it grows and make that soil firm.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Diseases are best controlled by crop rotation.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**It is often said that the best tasting Brussels sprouts are actually the small ones and not waiting until they are huge like the ones you often buy at the grocery store.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It is best to wait until after the first few frosts for the best flavor. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**To detach the sprouts, simply use a twisting motion and pick before the balls open.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can extend the season a long time by piling straw or loose mulch around the plants as high as possible and covering the plants and mulch with clear plastic. You can also pull up the plants, roots and all, and store the entire plants in a cool place where you can then pick the sprouts for about three more weeks.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-36776833055733321062012-02-04T13:57:00.000-08:002012-02-04T14:02:35.773-08:00How to Grow Broccoli<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5LUfwBTxQ8/Ty2q6SJukbI/AAAAAAAAAGA/pNExD-tKK7k/s1600/broccoli1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5LUfwBTxQ8/Ty2q6SJukbI/AAAAAAAAAGA/pNExD-tKK7k/s320/broccoli1.jpg" width="320" /></a><b><span style="font-size: large;">Name</span></b>: Broccoli</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Description</span></b>:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Tolerates cool climates very well. In warmer climates, grow the crop in the fall so that it gives you plenty of food in the winter (in warmer climates, it will flower very quickly in the summer, giving you a sparse crop, which is why you should grow this for the fall/winter)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Position:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**Choose a spot with good drainage and air circulation</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Choose a spot where broccoli has not grown for a few years</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It prefers full sun but will tolerate partial shade</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You do not need a lot of land for this crop because each individual plant gives a lot of food. Six plants in a 4x6 foot plot is a good start.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**This plant needs a rich soil with plenty of nitrogen. You should give <i>each</i> plant a shovelful of compost or manure. Calcium is also important and you can add more calcium to the soil by adding lime. The ideal pH for broccoli is a neutral 7.0.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Propagation:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**To grow a spring crop, you can start seeds indoors in a sunny but cool place 6-7 weeks before the last frost date and set the seedlings out when the plants are 5-6 inches tall/approx. 2-3 weeks before the last frost date.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can also sow the seeds directly in the garden for your spring crop. In a cooler climate, you can do this a month before the last frost date. In a warmer climate, you can do this very early in the spring. Sow several seeds in clusters and later snip off all but the strongest plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can also produce a spring crop from transplants from your local garden store.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**A good idea is to plant several spring broccoli crops in succession in order to keep a good supply coming along. You can keep them producing for a long while as long as you keep up with the harvesting.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**For a fall crop, you should set out transplants in late June or July. In a warmer climate, however, you might want to wait until August or early September.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Maintenance:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**A good mulch will help the plants retain a balanced moisture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**In times of drought, give them a long, deep soaking, especially if the soil is very dry.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You only have to give broccoli extra food if you are trying to speed the maturity of the plant. If this is the case, give the plants a dose of fish emulsion or blood meal.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**For pests: cutworms love baby broccoli plants, so keep an eye out for them. You may also have problems with green cabbage worms, though the worst thing the green cabbage worms do is get picked with the broccoli and end up on the dinner plate with your meal (they are very well hidden). Simply check your broccoli very carefully before cooking and serving or soak the broccoli in salt water to kill and dislodge them. You may also have problems with aphids, simply spray them off with a hose. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can prevent diseases to your plants by following a crop rotation system. See: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/2012/01/crop-rotation-guide.html">Crop Rotation Guide</a> for a great example.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">**When the first bunch has formed in the center of the plant, cut it off with a sharp knife above any new buds that might be forming. If you don’t keep up with the picking, the green heads will send up tall yellow flowers. This means that the plant will stop producing edible stalks.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can cook and eat stalks with flowers that have started to open, but the flowers turn brown when cooked, which is not very attractive on the dinner plate.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-88407868469160494702012-01-25T12:33:00.000-08:002012-01-25T12:33:41.760-08:00How to Grow Beets<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.ezhealthydiet.com/image-files/beet-nutrition.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ezhealthydiet.com/image-files/beet-nutrition.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Name:</b></span> Beets</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Description:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Beets are best eaten young/small because that is when they are their sweetest and tastiest.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Position:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**They do best in a sunny position, in a light, sandy soil.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**They prefer a soil of pH 6.5-7.0.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Propagation:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Try to sow beets through the year so that you have a regular, continuous supply. Start in early spring by sowing seeds indoors and use bolt-resistant varieties. In late spring, when the risk of frost has passed, begin sowing directly outdoors.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Beet seeds can be difficult to germinate. Soak them in warm water for 30 minutes before sowing them in order to soften them and wash out the germination inhibitor.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Thin out the weakest plantlings so that the plants are approx. 2 inches apart in rows that are 6 inches apart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Maintenance:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Once the plants are established and the roots are starting to swell, water moderately unless the conditions are very dry.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Overwatering will only encourage leaf growth but underwatering will cause the outer leaves to turn yellow and the roots to become woody. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Keep your rows well weeded and give them a boost of fish emulsion once or twice to give them some extra nitrogen, manganese, and boron.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you sow your seeds every few weeks, you should be able to harvest beets all through the summer and fall. Start picking the first beets when they are about the size of a golf ball.</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-77106472111008302762012-01-12T15:22:00.000-08:002012-01-12T15:24:29.031-08:00Crop Rotation GuideI've been studying crop rotation ideas in various gardening books and have found that everyone has a different opinion about how to do this. At first, I was frustrated and overwhelmed at all of the options to choose from. However, I finally chose some ideas from a few of my favorite gardening book and put it all together and I think this crop rotation guide is clear to understand and very helpful....at the very least, helpful for me. :)<br />
<br />
Here is my crop rotation guide. I will divide my garden into four main parts (aside from two smaller areas for my perennials like asparagus and rhubarb) and then move the four parts clockwise to the next section in the following year. For example, after the first year, Group 1 will be moved to the area of the garden where Group 2 had been, Group 2 will move to Group 3's old location, etc. I hope this makes sense! Add a question to the comment section if you are confused...<br />
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<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; margin-left: 9.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-insideh: .5pt solid windowtext; mso-border-insidev: .5pt solid windowtext; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;"><tbody>
<tr style="height: 169.5pt; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;"> <td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 169.5pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 215.5pt;" valign="top" width="287"><div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="text-align: center;">Group 1: Brassicas and Tomatoes<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">**These are heavy feeders. Plant them together because the tomatoes’ scent keeps brassica pests at bay. Put lime in the beds in the winter and prepare with a good compost or well-rotted manure. Feed with nitrogen-rich fertilizer in the summer.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">Includes:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Broccoli<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Brussels sprouts<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Cabbages<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Lettuces<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Oriental leaves/salad greens<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Pak choi/bok choy<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Radishes<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Spinach<br />
*Tomatoes</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><o:p></o:p></div></td> <td colspan="2" style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 169.5pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 235.0pt;" valign="top" width="313"><div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">Group 2: Legumes, annual herbs and flowers<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">**These are content plants. Only add compost if your soil is poor. Peas and beans collect nitrogen and store it in their roots, so this nitrogen will be available for Group 1 in the following year. Plant herbs and/or flowers between your peas and beans, however, because they do not help each other very well.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">Includes:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Broad/Fava beans<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*French/String beans<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Lettuces<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Runner/Flat pole beans<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Peas<o:p></o:p></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 186.5pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td colspan="2" style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 186.5pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 3.0in;" valign="top" width="288"><div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">Group 4: Root Vegetables<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">**Most of these plants do not like a freshly manured ground, so grow them in the next <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">year in the Group 1 section. Only add compost <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">if your soil is extremely poor and do this right before planting or sowing. Celeriac and Leeks are the exception: they enjoy some additional fertilizer.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">Includes:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Beets *Onions<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Carrots *Parsnips<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Celeriac *Rutabegas<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Chard *Lettuces<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Garlic<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Leeks<o:p></o:p></div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 186.5pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 234.5pt;" valign="top" width="313"><div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">Group 3: Potatoes and the Cucumber Family</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">**These plants are heavy feeders, but unlike Group 1, this group needs a more balanced food intake. Four weeks before planting, work in compost or well-rotted manure. If any plants look needy in the summer, feed them with fish emulsion. These plants appreciate rows of annual herbs or flowers planted in between the rows to attract pollinating insects.</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">Includes:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Courgettes/Zucchini and Squashes<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Cucumbers<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Peppers and Chili Peppers<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Potatoes<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Pumpkins<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Spinach <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">*Sweet Corn<o:p></o:p></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-48961063627854393862012-01-06T07:33:00.000-08:002012-01-06T07:33:13.030-08:00How to Grow Asparagus<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://andreaskeller.squarespace.com/storage/asparagus.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1253499829346" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://andreaskeller.squarespace.com/storage/asparagus.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1253499829346" width="212" /></a><b>Name</b>: Asparagus </div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Description</b>: </div><div class="MsoNormal">**Planting asparagus is a wonderful investment for a gardener, though it also requires a lot of patience since you have to wait 2-3 whole years before you can harvest your first full crop. However, since it is one of very few veggie perennials, it means your future looks bright –and green- from so much delicious asparagus.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Position</b>: </div><div class="MsoNormal">**In order to grow enough asparagus for a family of four, you need about 50 plants and thus about 250 square feet of land. If possible, the site should be sunny, though they will tolerate some shade (but then be more susceptible to disease).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It should be grown in its’ own plot section in the garden because the plants are so tall that it can easily shade plants growing next to them. However, in the first year, the ferns are not very tall yet, so you could plant some crops between the asparagus rows. In the other years, if necessary, you could grow early crops such as radishes and lettuce there as well since they will be harvested before the ferns get too tall.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Propagation</b>:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Most gardeners grow asparagus from one-year old roots or crowns, from either a local nursery or a mail-order supplier. Try to plant them as soon as possible after purchasing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**If you live in a warm climate, plant your asparagus in the fall or winter, if possible. In cooler climates, plant them in the early spring, about four weeks before the last average frost date. It is best to prepare the soil the previous fall so have healthier plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Try to plant asparagus in rows that are spaced four feet apart because these plants have deep running and far-spreading roots that need plenty of space.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You can also grow asparagus from seed, though this will take four years to produce a harvest instead of three. However, they will be, in general, more healthy and produce higher yields of crops. It also costs less. Seeds should be started indoors 3-5 months before planting and plant after all danger of frost has passed.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Maintenance</b>:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Remember that asparagus is a perennial, so choose its’ site carefully because it will be permanent.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**This is a hungry plant, so give the soil plenty of compost/manure before planting your crop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**This plant prefers a soil pH os 6.5-7.5</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Keep a new bed well watered and keep away weeds (which can get their roots tangled in with the asparagus and ruin your crop). Mulching the crop helps keep down weeds and also keeps the soil moist.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**In the first year of planting, a few small asparagus spears will pop up. DO NOT PICK THEM! These spears will grow into the foliage needed to make food for the roots to store that will give you years of large harvests in the future. Do not cut the foliage down in the winter, just let it naturally die down by itself. Only when the color fades completely from the plant should you consider cutting down the old stems to prevent diseases. In the second spring, there will be more spears than the year before. You may pick a few of the ones that are as thick as your finger, but leave most of them once again. Just keep watering and waiting patiently and keep the mulch fresh. You should also give it a fresh dose of compost/manure once a year, most likely in the fall or winter season. A spring feeding with liquid fertilizer (such as fish emulsion)_ will also help out your plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The worst pest/disease problem for asparagus is the asparagus beetle. You can control them simply by picking them off as they appear. If beetles continue to be a problem, destroy the dead stalks in the fall.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Harvesting</b>:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**In the third spring, there will be many more spears. You may pick any that are finger-size, but stop after a month or six weeks. You can either snap or cut off the spears for harvest, just be careful not to harm new shoots. Spears are the tastiest and most tender when the scales are flat against the stalk and have not yet begun to open.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Always leave a few spears on the plant to allow the plant to recover and gain strength for next year.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**You usually harvest from late April until approx. June 21</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Asparagus does not keep its flavor long after cutting, but it freezes well.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/2011/07/references-and-warnings.html">references and warnings</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://kitchenproject.com/history/Asparagus/Asparagus300x400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://kitchenproject.com/history/Asparagus/Asparagus300x400.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asparagus with its' fern leaves</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"> </div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-1344972744864457262012-01-03T09:18:00.000-08:002012-01-03T09:18:52.473-08:00How to Grow Rocket/Arugula<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://blog.mastergardening.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/arugula2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://blog.mastergardening.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/arugula2.jpg" width="320" /></a>Name: Rocket/Arugula</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Description:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**With a slightly peppery taste, Arugula gives salads a nice bite, or can even be used as a salad itself.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It is very hardy and can outlast nearly all other green leaf salad plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**The seeds are cheap and a packet usually holds a good quantity and it doesn’t matter too much if it is sown too thickly. It also grows very fast.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Position:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Full sunshine when sown in spring and autumn, some shade in summer is preferred.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Not picky about soil.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Propagation:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Sow from March to late September every 4 weeks, thin to 6 inches apart or simply cut off needed leaves while leaving the plant in the ground. In this manner, the plant will continue to produce more leaves.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Sow every couple of weeks for a continuous crop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Seeds can be stored for up to 3 years.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Maintenance:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Water if very dry, otherwise, this plant takes care of itself.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">**It can sometimes bolt in the summer. You can still eat the leaves but they will be more bitter than normal. However, if it bolts, it will self-seed itself (though the plants usually have smaller leaves).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Harvesting:</div><div class="MsoNormal">**Start picking outer leaves and keep picking. Once the flowers have formed, the leaves become small and bitter, so this is when you move on to the next batch.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/2011/07/references-and-warnings.html">references and warnings</a></div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-52300978055605715942011-11-30T19:06:00.000-08:002011-11-30T19:06:52.282-08:00Four Herbal Teas, Two Herbs<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZinAScRAH9Y/Ttbu7d_UUlI/AAAAAAAAAFc/a6Tkqli1WGw/s1600/tea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZinAScRAH9Y/Ttbu7d_UUlI/AAAAAAAAAFc/a6Tkqli1WGw/s320/tea.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: small;">Trying to come up with more herbal tea ideas? Here are a few more ways I use lemon balm and lavender in my beverages. Both herbs produce a relaxing effect that helps me sleep at night and also helps me keep an edge off my stress levels after a crazy work day... </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">1) </span><span style="font-size: large;">Lemon Balm Tea with Milk</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;">*steep lemon balm leaves in hot milk for five minutes, strain out leaves, and add 1 tsp maple syrup. This makes a delicious, relaxing bedtime drink</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;">*1-3 tsp. dried leaves or 1-3 tbsp. fresh leaves per cup of milk. </span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">2) Lemon Balm with your favorite loose leaf tea</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;">*Lemon balm leaves can be combined with Earl Grey, green or black tea. Fresh leaves are best for tea.</span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;"> <strong><span> </span></strong></span></div><div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><strong style="font-weight: normal;"><span>3) Lavender with your favorite loose leaf tea</span></strong></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><br />
*1 teaspoon dried lavender flowers (English lavender)<br />
*1 tablespoon English Breakfast tea<br />
*a dash of fresh lemon<br />
*sugar or honey to taste<br />
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*To prepare, pour two cups of boiling water over the tea leaves and lavender and allow to steep for five to ten minutes. Add lemon, strain, add sugar or honey to taste.<br />
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</style> <![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">4) <strong style="font-weight: normal;">Lavender & Black Tea Infused Milk</strong></span><b><br />
</b>*1 tsp. dried lavender blossoms<br />
*1 Tbsp. black tea (darjeeling, english breakfast, earl grey)<br />
*1.5 cups whole milk</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">*Put all of the above in a small saucepan and starting at medium heat, bring slowly to warmth, removing from heat before boiling/simmering. You will see a softening, frothiness around the edge of the milk, and a gentle steam will be rising from the milk. Add honey if desired!<br />
<br />
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle"><br />
</div>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-71176702463699887482011-11-02T14:01:00.000-07:002011-11-02T14:01:05.297-07:00Making Your Own CompostWell, it's been a while. I've been busy drying herbs for the winter as well as getting my yard in general ready for winter. But I have time right now, so I figured I would write about How to Make Your Own Compost. Here is the information on that, in outline form (as a teacher and eternal student, I can't help it).<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1) </span><span style="font-size: large;">Structures:</span></b><br />
*There are many different ways to keep your compost, including the following:<br />
<br />
A) Wire, Wood, or Cinder block structures:<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-60p4y9L0BrU/TrGlyx7c-HI/AAAAAAAAAEA/8RrZKX_T3zQ/s1600/chicken-wire-compost-bin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-60p4y9L0BrU/TrGlyx7c-HI/AAAAAAAAAEA/8RrZKX_T3zQ/s200/chicken-wire-compost-bin.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire Structure for Compost</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
*use one of these products to form a square or circular shape, but leave an opening (ex: 3 sided square with 4th side open for easy access)<br />
<br />
*with this structure, you turn compost ingredients with a garden fork to help the decomposition process<br />
<br />
*this is a clean-looking way and yet also traditional-ish way to keep compost (compared to the other options)<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBCNVAm9QsI/TrGlzGzPzKI/AAAAAAAAAEI/mHwFJIdpOmY/s1600/Composting-Blocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBCNVAm9QsI/TrGlzGzPzKI/AAAAAAAAAEI/mHwFJIdpOmY/s1600/Composting-Blocks.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cinder Block Structure for Compost</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
B) Pit or Pile composting:<br />
<br />
*dig a hole 2-3 feet deep and unlined. Add compost ingredients until the pit is filled. Cover the compost with soil and allow it to decompose. When ready, unearth the compost and use.<br />
<br />
*piles work only if you are diligent about turning your pile and keeping it moist. This is not an attractive option but it is the cheapest.<br />
<br />
C) Buy a ready-made compost bin from a garden supply shop<br />
<br />
*be careful to buy a proper product (organic, etc.).<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2) Creating the Compost:</span></b><br />
<br />
A) Place several small twigs in the bottom of your chosen structure. This provides air pockets at the bottom for proper decomposition.<br />
<br />
B) Add a layer of soil, about 8-10 inches deep.<br />
<br />
C) Cover the soil with 4-6 inches of manure. Use whatever type of livestock manure is available to you, but make sure it is from a good organic source. Do NOT use dog or cat manure. The more aged the manure, the faster it will compost.<br />
<br />
D) Add additional items such as:<br />
*vegetable scraps<br />
*fruit trimmings/scraps<br />
*grains<br />
*egg shells<br />
*tea/tea leaves<br />
*leaves<br />
*garden trimmings<br />
*grass clippings<br />
<br />
E) Do NOT add the following items to your compost:<br />
*meat scraps<br />
*excessive dairy products (a little bit is okay)<br />
*trimmings from diseased plants<br />
<br />
F) Add a 6 inch layer of soil and a 2-4 inch layer of manure every 24 inches to ensure a healthy compost. It should look like this: <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H8v5Xkm4KBk/TrGosmIAFvI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/XNc354osyqc/s1600/compost.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H8v5Xkm4KBk/TrGosmIAFvI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/XNc354osyqc/s1600/compost.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3) Activating the Compost:</span></b><br />
*To help speed up the process, you can activate your compost in the following ways:<br />
<br />
A) You can buy compost activator products from garden shops.<br />
<br />
B) Make your own activator:<br />
<br />
Make a compost tea and add to your compost once every 3 months. Wear gloves while doing this. Also, this recipe makes enough for a 64 cubic foot compost pile.<br />
*6 cups dried or 12 cups fresh nettles<br />
*6 cups dried or 12 cups fresh comfrey leaves<br />
*2 cups flaked or powdered kelp<br />
*1 cup liquid fish emulsion<br />
Put all ingredients into a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket with water. Allow the mixture to sit in a warm place for 4-8 hours. Pour all contents of buck into the compost pile.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4) Working the Compost:</span></b><br />
<br />
A) Turning the compost:<br />
*Turn your compost once a month in warm and hot weather. In colder months, turning is less crucial. Turn with a shovel or a garden fork. The goal is to flip the pile. As you turn the pile, you may find a small amount of rich, dark brown soil at the bottom. This pile of compost is ready to use but may also be mixed into the pile for later use.<br />
<br />
B) Water the compost:<br />
*This is an important part of the compost's quality. The compost should stay evenly moist, NOT soaking wet or dried out. Simply water with a hose as evenly as possible. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5) Using Your Compost:</span></b><br />
<br />
*Once the material is ready for use, apply 1-3 inches to the top of your garden soil. Work it into the soil until it is well mixed. It is ideal to add the compost in the spring, but you can really add it at any time. After mixing it into the soil, water the garden thoroughly.<br />
<br />
Enjoy the healthy plants that this compost will surely help you get! :)<br />
<br />
<br />
For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-44393758708289837472011-09-20T12:59:00.000-07:002011-09-20T12:59:40.366-07:00Medicinal Uses of DandelionGrowing up, I remember always being sad when my parents would spray weed killer on dandelions or chop them down with the lawnmower. Imagine my delight when I researched all of the medicinal value in dandelions! They have been, and always will be, a welcome addition to my garden. :)<br />
<br />
<b>Digestion problems, sluggish liver and/or gallbladder function:</b><br />
*As a bitter herb, dandelion root stimulates gastrointestinal functions. An infusion of roasted root is an alternative to coffee and, if taken before or heavy meal, can pleasantly stimulate digestion and handle issues with the liver and/or gallbladder<br />
<br />
Instructions:<br />
*Infuse 1/2 tsp- 2tsp. dried or roasted dandelion root in each 1 cup boiling water. Steep for 20 minutes and strain. Drink 3 cups per day. If using roasted root, add milk to taste but avoid sweeteners because they diminish the herb's effectiveness.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>As a Detox and Diuretic</b>:<br />
*Feeling sluggish or run-down? It might be time to detox. Dandelion leaves have powerful diuretic activity. They promote the production and excretion of urine and also stimulate the liver and gallbladder. The leaf is also a wonderful source of potassium, so if you need this nutrient, try this tea:<br />
<br />
Instructions:<br />
*Infuse 1-2 tsp. dried dandelion leaves in each 1 cup of boiling water. Steep for 20 minutes and strain. Drink 3 cups per day.<br />
<br />
<br />
For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-34949150396461719322011-09-20T12:49:00.000-07:002011-09-20T12:49:15.261-07:00Dandelion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j39GwC4jeCg/Tnjr-vWDiZI/AAAAAAAAAD4/4pFg_-iezG4/s1600/dandelion-field-080807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j39GwC4jeCg/Tnjr-vWDiZI/AAAAAAAAAD4/4pFg_-iezG4/s400/dandelion-field-080807.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Name:<br />
*Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)<br />
<br />
<br />
Description:<br />
*Most Americans consider dandelion a pesty weed. What they don't realize is that dandelion is one of the BEST nutritional and medicinal plants!<br />
*perennial<br />
*best in zones 3-9<br />
<br />
Parts Used:<br />
*whole plant, fresh or dried (flower does not dry well)<br />
<br />
Position:<br />
*full sun to partial shade<br />
*no special soil needs<br />
<br />
Propagation:<br />
*easy to grow from seed, will germinate with no special treatment, but if you do cold stratification first, there is almost a 90% success rate<br />
*you can sow directly into the garden<br />
<br />
Maintenance:<br />
*if self sows vigorously, so keep it in check: harvest before it self seeds for best results<br />
<br />
Harvesting:<br />
*You can harvest the whole plant at once, or if interested in only the roots (the strongest medicinal part), use a garden fork to gently pry the plant from the ground. The roots are best harvested in early spring or late fall<br />
*If you are harvesting the whole plant, you can harvest at any time (you do not have to wait until early spring or late fall for the roots)<br />
*Harvest the leaves and flowers at any time<br />
*It is easiest to dig up the whole plant in spring<br />
<br />
Medicinal:<br />
*restorative and rejuvenating, a whole body tonic<br />
*medicinal value for almost every body system, especially the liver, urinary tract, and skin<br />
*it is highly effective and very safe to use<br />
*good for constipation, kidney problems, treating warts, and coughs<br />
*it is a blood cleanser, high in vitamins A,B,C, and D, removes toxins from the body, high levels of potassium, good for gallbladder conditions, and digestion<br />
<br />
Cooking:<br />
*both the leaves and roots have long been eaten as a highly nutritious salad.<br />
*the roots, when dried, chopped and roasted, is an excellent substitute for coffee<br />
*the flowers make a famous and delicious dandelion wine<br />
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For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-49361236754077893912011-09-19T13:17:00.000-07:002011-09-19T13:18:10.076-07:00DepressionDepression is a serious problem for many people today. There are some herbal teas that should help bring cheer to the depressed. However, please note that depression is best cured in combination with doctors, exercise, etc.<br />
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Here are some combinations of herbs to make the best herbal teas for depression:<br />
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*lavender flower infusion, taken 3 times a day<br />
*lavender and rosemary infusion, taken 3 times a day<br />
*any combination of lavender, rosemary, and skullcap, 3 times a day<br />
*vervain, taken 3 times a day<br />
*vervain and skullcap, taken 3 times a day<br />
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Herbal tea infusion:<br />
*Use 1-3 tsp. of dired herb or 1-3 tbsp. fresh herb per 1 cup boiling water. Let it steep for 20-30 minutes, strain and sip slowly.<br />
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For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-14592444292726200392011-09-19T13:06:00.000-07:002011-09-19T13:06:52.421-07:00Medicinal Uses of Yarrow<b>Fevers/Colds/Flus:</b><br />
Yarrow has long been used to treat feverish conditions. It is often used at the beginning stages of a cold or flu and is commonly combined with elder flower to help lower high temperatures. For a herbal tea infusion with yarrow, see below.<br />
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<b>To Lower High Blood Pressure</b>:<br />
Yarrow reduces high blood pressure by dilating peripheral blood vessels. It combines great with hawthorn berries to reduce high blood pressure. For a herbal tea infusion with yarrow, see below.<br />
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<b>To Stop Bleeding:</b><br />
Yarrow has a medicinal quality that helps stop or slow down bleeding from cuts and scrapes. Clean the wound. Then apply a compress or a poultice made of yarrow. Dip the leaves in hot water briefly before applying to sterilize them.<br />
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<br />
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<b>Herbal Tea Infusion:</b><br />
*Infuse 1 teaspoon of dried yarrow (flowers and leaves) in boiling water. Let it steep for 20 minutes. Strain and drink 3 cups per day.<br />
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For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-2873695454472557542011-09-19T12:56:00.000-07:002011-09-19T12:56:46.322-07:00Lovage SoupI am eager to try this soup, it sounds delicious!<br />
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Lovage Soup<br />
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Ingredients:<br />
*2 tbsp. butter<br />
*2 medium onions, finely chopped<br />
*2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced<br />
*4 tbsp. finely chopped lovage leaves<br />
*3.5 cups chicken or vegetable stock<br />
*1 cup milk or cream<br />
*grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper<br />
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Directions:<br />
1) Melt the butter in a heavy pan and gently saute the onions and diced potatoes for 5 minutes until soft.<br />
2) Add the chopped lovage leaves and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil, season with salt and pepper, cover and simmer gently until the potatoes are soft (approx. 15 minutes)<br />
3) Puree' the soup with a food processor or blender and return to a pan. Blend in the milk or cream, sprinkle with nutmeg and heat through. Do not boil or the milk/cream will curdle! Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve the soup either hot or cold. Enjoy!<br />
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Recipe found in: Jekka McVicar, <i>The Complete Herb Book</i>, pg. 145.<br />
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For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2881715796509452273.post-73252622231386773182011-09-19T12:29:00.000-07:002011-09-19T12:29:40.656-07:00Marjoram and sausage pastaMarjoram is my favorite herb in the kitchen! I adore it!<br />
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Marjoram and sausage pasta<br />
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Ingredients:<br />
*10.5 oz. rigatoni<br />
*9oz. sausages<br />
*2tbsp. olive oil<br />
*1 large red onion, roughly chopped<br />
*2-3 cloves garlic, minced<br />
*1 small eggplant, diced<br />
*3 small zucchini, diced<br />
*2 cups tomato pasta sauce<br />
*1 tbsp. fresh chopped marjoram (or, I suppose, if you must, oregano)<br />
*1.5 oz. black olives<br />
*9oz. cherry tomatoes<br />
*2 tbsp. chopped parsley<br />
*marjoram leaves and Parmesan cheese for garnish<br />
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Directions:<br />
1) Cook pasta in boiling water until it is al dente, approx. 10 minutes. Drain.<br />
2) Grill sausages until brown. Cool slightly, then cut into thick slices.<br />
3) Heat oil in saucepan over moderate heat. Fry onion until starting to color, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and sausages, cook a few minutes.<br />
4) Increase heat and add eggplant and zucchini, cook and stir for 5 minutes, or until eggplant begins to soften.<br />
5) Add tomato pasta sauce, marjoram, and seasonings. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes, or until eggplant is tender.<br />
6) Stir in olives and tomatoes. Cover and cook an additional 5 minutes. Combine pasta and sauce in a large bowl. Stir in parsley. Sprinkle with additional marjoram and Parmesan. Enjoy!<br />
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Recipe located in: Reader's Digest, <i>The Complete Illustrated Book of Herbs, </i>pg. 81.<br />
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For additional information, see: <a href="http://ravenherbandgarden.blogspot.com/search/label/References%20and%20Warnings">references and warnings</a>Ravenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02688214682720819505noreply@blogger.com1